The Devil's Porridge - The Conan Doyle and Suffragette Connection.

The Devil's Porridge

The History of Scotland goes back a long way, but here we look at more recent times.

The year is 1915. The First World War is going very badly for Britain. There is a huge number of casualties, caused mainly by a lack of guns and ammunition. This caused unrest in the British Public, and it was necessary to do something really drastic, otherwise our country would lose the war with Germany.
So it was decided to commandeer land on the Solway Coast, stretching for 9 miles and 2 miles in width.

Why choose The Solway Coast?

The reasons were both to do with geography and transport links.
Firstly, the area was outwith the range of the Zeppelins and German bombers, and it was protected by Mountains to the North, East, and South.

Secondly it was served by extremely good north/south road and rail links.

What was the land commandeered for?

Britain was going to build the largest Munitions Factory the world has ever seen!

Architects were brought in to design two new towns, Gretna and Eastriggs, to house the workforce. They were designed on the same model as Welwyn Garden City with picturesque tree-lined streets and avenues. At first the houses were built of wood, but as supplies of timber ran out, they were later to be built of brick. Hostels were provided for the bulk of the workforce, and could go up in as little as a day! There was also churches, a dancehall, pubs and a cinema, as well as shops, admin offices.

Reconstruction of a worker's bedroom.

Who was going to do the building with most of the men away at War?

This was the job of Irish navvies, in the main, who came over to Scotland. It took 30,000 workers to build the factory and the two towns, which were ready for use by 1916.

Who was going to provide the workforce?

Women! But as this was a rural area where would the workforce come from? The answer is that they came from all countries of the British Empire (as it was known at that time).

How large was the workforce?

20,000 women worked there! Now one can imagine this was an added incentive for the Irish Navvies! and I am told there was many a wedding resulted from this project. There was also a good amount of brawling as a result of what was being consumed in the pubs! But despite the distractions, the job got done.

Why did they need 9 miles x 2 miles for the factory?

Between each section of the factory, they had to build a mound of earth to separate the buildings, because if one exploded the mound would prevent the others from following suit in a chain explosion.

Mounds between each section of the factory.

How did they make the ammunition?

The basic ingredient was COTTON. It arrived from the USA in huge bales. This was then mixed with nitroglycerine, and acid. This mixture was so volatile that the women were not allowed to wear any metal object e.g buttons, as this could trigger an explosion. (There were explosions -over 300 women died in munitions factories in UK) Upon arrival for work each women would be searched for metal, and if any was discovered the girl would be fined.

The girls would turn the mixture into long cords of explosive material which would be cut to fit the Guns on the Front Line in France. The name CORDITE comes from here.

Cotton was the basic ingredient

The atmosphere was not a healthy one compared to today's standards, with many of the women suffering health problems in later life.

What is the Connection with Arthur Conan Doyle and the Suffragette Movement?
In his role as a war correspondent, he visited the factory, and marvelled at the effort, writing about the girls stirring their "Devil's Porridge" (thus the phrase was coined)

In those days, women were very much subjugated, and because of Conan Doyle's glowing reports on their war efforts, opinions towards women changed and they eventually got the vote.

All of this huge enterprise was only in use for 3 YEARS with the War ending in 1918.

The buildings were either pulled down or sold at a knockdown price as housing. Gretna and Eastriggs remain to this day, in Scotland, with their distinctive English-designed houses.

The workforce dispersed to their own countries, but their efforts will always be venerated in this small rural part of Scotland, for without them, the outcome of the First World war would have

been very different.

Souvenirs made for the women to take home with them

Hats they wore at work

Sweetheart Abbey a 13th Century Love Story - What is the Connection To Oxford University?

Sweetheart Abbey

Nestling on the edge of the charming village of New Abbey is the very lovely Sweetheart Abbey. As it sits just after a bend in the road I always try to have a good look at it when I drive past, and no matter what the weather, it never loses its appeal. The Abbey was commissioned in 1273 for the Cistercian order of monks by Lady Devorgilla of Galloway, as a memorial to her husband, John.

This was the last of twelve Cistercian Monasteries to be built in Scotland, thus giving the name of New Abbey to the village.

The monastery was designed in the shape of a cross.

John was one of the wealthiest people in Europe,

Devorgilla and John were utterly devoted to one another, and she was heartbroken at his death, in 1269

She had a casket made of ivory and silver, where John's embalmed heart was placed, and kept by her side at all times.

Devorgilla died in 1289, and is buried along with her precious ivory casket and its contents, in Sweetheart Abbey, where her tomb can be seen to this day.

What is the connection between Oxford University, and Sweetheart Abbey?

Devorgilla's husband John came from Barnard Castle in the North of England. He also had another estate in England, and yet others in France. But he and Devorgilla loved each other very much, and he decided to live with her in the south of Scotland. This was a time of great happiness for the couple, as they brought up their young family. It was also a period of stability for the area.

Whilst they were extremely wealthy people, they were also great benefactors. John had decided that he wanted to establish a college at Oxford. He also provided funds for the education of needy students there.

Thus, we have the connection with Oxford University.

The name of Devorgilla's husband was John Balliol. The College, is the world famous Balliol College.

The John Paul Jones Museum

The John Paul Jones Museum

This Museum is run by Dumfries Museums, but would not be in existence but for the generosity of Americans, who travel to Scotland to see his birthplace. After John Paul Jones' family died out the cottage, sadly, fell into ruin. In 1832 a Lt Pinckham who visited the site, was so appalled at the state of it that he paid for repairs to be done. This cost £25.00 (oh, that house repairs were still at these prices today!)

Next to help was an Admiral Wright,who, having retired from the US Navy, raised funds, so that it could opened as a Museum in 1993.

At the back of the cottage, an extension was added which has been made to look like his cabin in the Bonhomme Richard.

In the grounds a commemorative Rose Garden has been planted, and there is a lovely picnic area where one can look out over the sea to the coast of England. I just love this picnic area.

I could not resist adding the pictures of the two self appointed guardians of the Museum, Mojo and Tilly who take their work very seriously!

John Paul Jones - Father of the American Navy

John Paul Jones

I am sure not may people will know that they would have to travel to Scotland to find the Founder or Father of the American Navy, John Paul Jones. Today I was driving along the Solway coast and decided to stop at his birthplace, a tiny, two roomed cottage on the Arbigland Estate, where his father was the gardener.

Such humble beginnnings are hard to believe, but it goes to show that in life, if you are determined, you will succeed. John Paul was born on the 6th July 1747 (the name Jones was added later in life) and went to the local school at Kirkbean. He liked to go to the local small port of Carsethorn, where he enjoyed meeting and talking to the sailors. Along with his friends he would act out naval battles, with John Paul in command giving the orders. At 13 he signed up for a naval apprenticeship, and set sail for real, this time from Carsethorn. One of his voyages took him to America where his older brother had emigrated. He stayed with him at Fredericksburg, Virginia, and studied navigation.

The tiny cottage in S W Scotland where he was born.

Bedroom of the Cottage

Main room of the cottage

By the age of 21 he was a Captain, always neatly dressed, and standing no nonsense from anyone! despite being only 5'5" tall. He was to travel to Scotland many times, in the course of his work.

Commodore Jones stood no nonsense from the crew!!

Always of smart appearance.

When the American War of Independence came, he supported the colonists, which did not make him very popular back in UK. He joined the American "Continental Navy" in 1775. His reputation and experience became such that he was asked to advise on the drawing up of Navy Regulations. In 1777 with his friend Benjamin Franklin, he forced the French to salute the American Flag at Quiberon. This was the first time the American Flag had been hoisted in a foreign port.

After this he went to Whitehaven on the English side of the Solway for a hit and run raid after which he would travel to Scotland again, to Kirkcubright Bay, where his crew did a spot of looting, before going on to a naval battle at Carrickfergus, which he won. The British were not happy, and were really out to get him now! He did not have good press in Britain and was regarded as a pirate.

Next he went to Brest, where he took command of his most famous ship, the Bonhomme Richard. From here he was to travel to Scotland with a fleet of seven ships on a mission to destroy British trade in the North Sea. After some adventures in the Firth of Forth he was to engage in his most famous naval battle against the HMS Serapis, and the HMS Countess of Scarborough, which he won, with the loss of the Bonhomme Richard. The year was 1779.

Replica of the Bonhomme Richard

Two years later he returned to America where he spent his time advising on the establishment of the American Navy, and training naval officers.

By 1788 he was in Paris and on the recommendation of Thomas Jefferson, he met Catherine, Empress of Russia, and was made an Admiral in the Russian Navy before returning to Paris in 1790. He died at the age of 45 in Paris two years later, where his remains lay until 1905.

President Roosevelt, ordered that his remains be found, and transported to the USA. Amidst great ceremony, John Paul Jones returned to Chesapeake Bay to be met by seven battleships, and 15 gun salutes. He was then taken to Annapolis,to be laid to rest in huge marble tomb in the Crypt of the Chapel of Annnapolis Naval Academy.

So, the young boy from the tiny gardener's cottage did not travel to Scotland again. His final resting place is a testament to the esteem in which he is held in America.

Scottish and American flags fly in the garden of the John Paul Jones Museum.

Travel to Homecoming Scotland 2009 - Your Invitation

Travel to Homecoming Scotland 2009


Invitation

You are invited to Travel to Scotland to attend a Party to Celebrate the 250th Anniversary of the Birth of Robert Burns, Scotland's National Poet.

Start January 25th 2009

Finish November 30th 2009

Venue Scotland

It is estimated there are 100 million people of Scots descent living throughout the world, (The Scottish Family)and this Party is to encourage them, and people who have a love of Scotland, to travel to Scotland next year.

The 5 Themes of the party will be those which have made Scotland famous :

• Robert Burns
• Whisky
• Scottish Enlightenment
• Golf
• Culture & Heritage.

The Party will kick off with the world's Largest Virtual Burns Supper.

In July there will be The biggest Clan Gathering ever, in Edinburgh, (thus far 107 clans have accepted) Highland Games, and the World Heavy Athletics Championships.

For those who like a wee dram, there is a Whisky Month in May when all the distlilleries will be open to the public, and a Whisky Galore Festival on the Island of Barra. (This will be interesting!!)

The Golfers will be happy as the Open Golf Tournament is to be held at Turnberry in 2009.

Lovers of the Bard will be pleased to know that there will be a Concert at the Clyde Auditorioum in Glasgow to celebrate the songs of Robert Burns.

Contributions made by Scots to the World of Science will be highlighted at the Edinburgh International Science Festival.

The Queen Mary 2 will be anchored in the Forth as many visitors have chosen to travel to Scotland on the ship, for the Celebrations.

Those who live in Scotland are being encouraged to invite overseas family members to visit next year, and it is hoped that many more memers of the extended Scottish Family will travel back to Scotland.

A lot of visitors will be keen to take the opportunity to trace their ancestry whilst here. Family Trees are becoming very popular nowadays, and there are many organisations who can help with this.

2009 is looking to be a Great Year for Scotland, with lots of events all over the country, ending on St Andrew's Day 30th November.

We hope you can travel to Scotland, and see the Homeland at its best.

(This Blog has attempted to assist with Scottish Travel, accomodation etc )

Dalswinton Wind Farm - Living with Wind Turbines

Dalswinton Wind Farm

Today there was an Open Day at the new wind farm a few miles away from my home. I decided to make a trip there to check it out.There was a long queue to board buses which took one up the hill to the wind farm. Children were becoming restless, as the wait was about one hour. Eventually I boarded my bus and whilst I was thinking that it was a good distance to the top of the hill, on sighting our first turbine, a young voice piped up from the back of the bus "Are they solar powered?" This put a smile on everyone's face, because we had all been rather fed up having to wait so long to get up the hill to see these famous turbines.

They are giants! The top looks like the fuselage of an aircraft with the tail cut off, and a propeller added. They make little sound for something so large. The sound is like a gentle swoosh, and I found it quite appealing. They had a mesmerising effect on me, as I stood and watched them turning in the wind. Quite graceful, I thought. There is a door at the base of the suporting pillar which provides access to the control mechanisms of each turbine.

Views from the top of the hill are spectactular. It is possible to see all the way over the Solway Firth to Cumbria. The Firth looked very muddy on the day! Perhaps the tide was out.

For those who like Facts & Figures

This windfarm has 15 turbines

Each has a capacity of 30MW

This provides power to 18,000 homes.

CO2 saving is over 60,000 tonnes per annum

The project commenced in March 2007

Was completed in May 2008.

12km of new roads were constructed.

The diameter of each rotor is 82 metres

The base or Hub is 80 metres

Each rotor can turn at 8-19 rpm


Living with Wind Turbines

These Giants can be seen from all areas surrounding Dalswinton. Some say they are a "Blot on the Landscape"

Acres of forest was cleared to make way for them.

The worst part for those living in the area was the Constant Roadworks, with accompanying Traffic Lights, which held us up, even though the part of the road being worked was only a few metres, and was perfectly passable with care. Most thought this was OTT but I reckon it was more to do with the Elf 'n Safety Police enforcing their will on the poor motorist.

As a result of all these road works, the road now is in a disgusting state, full of potholes and patches. It wreaks havoc on the tyres.

We were told that the road would be resurfaced completely, making us feel quite jubilant. However, some things are too good to be true, and we now hear that all that will be done is a spot of cosmetic patching. NOT FAIR is the general opionion here!

As for the acres of cut forest, there is a replanting programme. Many young trees have already been planted, and at the top where the turbines are, 50 hectares of heather will be planted.

The roadworks were a pain. The fact that the road will not be completely resurfaced is also a pain.

My own opinion, for what it is worth, is that the windfarm, all things considered, is beneficial.

The turbines look like graceful dancers on the hilltop.

Although I am not one of the Global Warming Devotees, I do see the need to get away from our dependency on oil. We are currently being held to ransom by oil producing countries, oil traders, and those who have a political agenda. At the time of writing, some filling stations are charging £1.99 per litre for petrol. This is completely out of order!

The windfarm is a step in the right direction. Scotland has many renewable natural energy resources, we should take more advantage of these.

Cycling Holidays and a Secret Place

Cycling in South West Scotland

As we have already seen the bicycle was invented in this area, and because of this, there are many cycling facilities in SW Scotland.

The European Union gave a grant to develop cycle paths, and the National Cycle Network which passes through this area gives the opportunity to explore a variety of differing scenery.

Someone once told me that Dumfries & Galloway has every type of landscape which Scotland is famous for. As I pondered this, I realised that it is a very true statement. From rolling hills to mountains and glens - beaches, lochs, and rivers, lush farmland, forests, and moorland, it is all here! and to cap it all the weather is much milder than in other parts of the country, as our coastline is warmed by the waters of the Gulf Stream.

A Secret Place

I was once at a play during the Edinburgh Festival, which was acted in French. Afterwards I had the privilege to meet up with some of the actors. We were discussing where we each came from, and one of them told me he came from a Secret Place, in France, which, translated meant, that it was a place which is not generally known to people. When he said this, I realised that I too came from a Secret Place!

When most people come to Scotland they head up to Edinburgh, the North and the Highlands, missing out the South West. This of course makes it ideal for cycling as there is less traffic on the roads. The area is mainly rural, so the opportunity to be out in the wide open spaces without having to negotiate towns & cities is welcome by cyclists here. Yes it really is a Secret Place. It is My Scotland!

For those who prefer to be off the roads there is ample opportunity to visit the 7 stanes centres within the forests of the area. There are 5 of these centres here.